Fur in your mouth

Wait! Brush the fur off!
So, I've been busy with work and holidays. Now I'm back at my blog. Its funny to see just my intro "Fur in your mouth". Not sure what I was initially going for but ill run with it.

The biggest turn off for guys is when we start finding our significant others hair in our under garments (same idea applies to men, unless you wax your hair...). Well, guess what!

Most likely you guessed right, majority of dogs shed, difference is, how much and how far it spreads in your home. If your like me, I used to sleep with my husky's on my bed before I moved. For laughs on your truly, I shared my twin sized bed with my male and female... I had to sleep semi curled in order for them to both fit. One against my back, the other behind my legs.

Anyways, you will always be attacked with hair. Weather you wake up with it in your mouth or all over your pant legs. It comes with the territory of being a proud owner!

If your so far not scared of a lot of shedding and fur in your mouth and clothes, great! Because you'll love brushs them daily to help bring in their new coats. Its like a brush-a-thon! Really worth it in my eyes. When you bring out your brush and they lay on their backs or sides waiting for you to start.

Sometimes, adding a little fishoil to their food helps create a better coat, the shiny full luster if beauty. Reading some others questions, bring up interesting thoughts.

Like:

1. Why isn't he/she not having the shiney coat? A: Could be their nutrition. (See post "What to feed or not to feed") for more info on that.
2. The tail is not looking like a "bottle brush". A: Possible hereditary, nutrition or their not being kept up with.

The list can go on. Please feel free to leave comments/queations and as always thank you for following my blog!

Puppy Training (First months home)

Hi everyone, I know it's been a while since I posted anything. So I am back with some great news for puppy owners.

A few basic puppy training routines:

• Perimeter walks; By taking your puppy out around the area he/she is allowed is the start of acclimating to their new home and the area their allowed be in. By doing this for a while, the puppy will understand their restrictions/boundaries.

• Crates; They are meant to be a safe haven for your puppy, as well as punishment. By letting the puppy stay in their crate while your out or in bed will be the safest place for your puppy. This way, they cannot get into anything that will harm them or destroy anything as well and beyond that... it will eliminate their need to relieve themselves (something they DO NOT like to do in their BED). Remember, they should be taken out every two hours in order to relieve themselves. Also, before and after playtime and exercise. Soon enough, you and your puppy will sync with times, so please make sure if you work long days you either take the time to train or find someone to come in to let the puppy out. So keep everyone in the household on the same page with times and training.
• Punishment; They will realize their freedom hangs in the balance of learning their boundaries (much like children, except putting them in the corner does not exactly work on puppies). The next best thing is their crates.
• To curve their mouthing/teething, try keeping toys in the area their allowed in the house so that they can play and chew on the proper things (do not give them any of your shoes or such either, your just telling them its okay to destroy things that belong to you. DO give them a blanket with your scent on it only in their crate (like an old sheet) so that they have comfort.

• House breaking; Is the most important obstacle for everyone whom has a new puppy or a dog from the shelter. Clearing up the grey area before moving forward, there is one thing every person should know if they do not already. You cannot expect the puppy to know why your upset with him/her five minutes after they had an accident. All they will understand is that you disapprove of them relieving in that spot, so they will do it else where. By paper training, that will eliminate all of that (yes, their puppies and will actually accidentally relieve themselves else where but its expect from puppies and older dogs with problems or an adult that is scared of certain things (IE: thunderstorms, fireworks, etc.). The paper training can progress to outside and eventually you will no longer need it. Remember, reward system works for every time they do what their supposed to do, a reward is given. Soon enough, it will be second nature to them and no longer needed.
• Remember, being consistent and timely is required as well as patients. Praises them for a job well done along with a treat is excellent and reminds them they did something correct and expected of them.

Start training puppies the basic commands (sit, stay, come), this will help with the communications between you and your puppies. Once they understand those three simple commands, you can move forward with commands. Every dog and every breed learns at different paces and levels. Some dogs learn quickly while others...well takes allot longer, but just hang in there and have patients and reward system.


Some more information please the link below by the AKC website.
AKC.org

I hope this helps everyone and please remember to leave any questions you may have in the comments and I will answer them as soon as humanly possible. You can also follow me using Google Plus.

Normal behaviors; the fix...

After reading through a page on facebook, I read a few questions. Dawned on me, this would be great information to post to answer a few questions. Walks: "The Puller" Your best bet with a puller is to remain calm and in control. Your walking him, not the other way around. It will take time and patience. For everytime he pulls, you need to give a tug on the leash (hard enough to get their attention BUT not to hurt them) and sternly say "heel". Keep ontop of that and it will dawn on them to chill out on pulling. Walks: Scouting other pets As far as wanting to check out another dog is concerned... you put them in a sit and stay position, (usually assuming the dog has basic sit and stay command already learned). If they haven't, its as simple as lightly pushing on the hunch of their rear legs (naturally that feeling on them singals them to sit). Its no shock that they will get right back up. Hey, its all about reputation. That's apart of the training process. Now, training is fundamental of them to learning boundries. Happy to see you: "The Jumper" Its always natrual for excitement and happiness to see you or someone. So begins the jumping. Simply, their saying "Hi! I wanna get in your arms and lick you to death!" Fixing this behavior is quite simple as well. Everytime they jump on you, use your knee to push into their chest. No need to do it hard! I have to stress that importance. There is no reason to harm him/her. Its just enough force to let them know its not approved. Along with that gesture, you give a stern "OFF". Repeatedly doing those two things will help them recognize they are not allowed to jump on anyone. Please make sure house guest or people approaching know what they need to do. (Below, I will talk about using the lead while someone enters the home or approaches. On the flipside to that, the same idea applies to anyone entering your home or approaching. Difference is; the leash should be attached until they learn not to jump up on anyone. Now, all you have to do is give a tug on the lead while the person entering pushes them with their knee. Again, stressing the need to not harm them but to gain attention and control. Remember to use the command in the process (OFF). Okay, little dogs are different. They require the sit and stay position instead. A Reminder- use a reward system for them. Eventually it will be second nature to them and wont be needing the reward system.

To Feed or What Not to Feed; That is the Question!

Many times, conversations come up while in dog talk; Can we feed them "people food"? Or someone said "I feed my dog raw meat". With that in mind, I wanted to blog about what we should be feeding our fur babies and what not too. Let us begin, First up, what NOT TO FEED:

• Avocado
• Macadamia Nuts
• Grapes & Rasins
• Yeast Dough
• Raw meats, Eggs & Bones (Includes undercooked)
• Xylitol
• Onions, Garlic & Chives
• Milk
• Salt

What is optimal feeding for them? Well, there's no exact answer, it's opinion based even with veterinarians. HOWEVER, Their is agrees upon balanced meals, kind of like human diets. Not too much of this or that. Now, the biggest issue of it all, where is that fine balance? It starts with not having anything to do with any kind of corn based as the first ingredient in your dog food. Like I've said to others, corn is just a filler with no huge potential for good health. How can you tell what ingredients are in your pets food? Simple, flip your bag over and read the small print of ingredients.

Now that's covered, we can zero in on the "optimal nutrition/diet". That fine line where you end corn in their diet, is where you begin with a well rounded bag of food. On the flip side to this, dogs need exercise, so make sure their going for walks daily and playing with them to expend that energy and have a good time. Happy and healthy fur babies are more likely to live out a much more enjoyable life with you then trips to the vet because of poor diet and exercise.

Best Regards,

SocialBeatz

ASPCA- More detailed information on the above list of what not to feed.

New logo update:

Yes, its done and updated. Let me know your thoughts on it.

Andriod© App coming out this month! So stay tuned for that update.

Best Regards,
SocialBeatz

P.S. Reggie is blowing his coat for winter. So its mega brushing time :)
Make sure everyone post their pictures. Id love to see the cutest pup and pile of hair!

QR Code

Picture below is a QR code. Another way to keep up-to-date!

Best Regards,
SocialBeatz

Updates: Posts/Logo/Mobile App

I am now avaliable on twitter! Follow me @Husky_Faq to always know about my informative posts. Posts will also be avaliable on my fb page if your on my friends list as well.

For those interested, I will be working on a logo soon. Also working on an app, would start on andriod market and see how it goes. Most likely migrate to the apple market later. I will make sure your aware of everything as I progress!

Best Regards,
SocialBeatz

The Standards of Siberian Huskies

When someone refers to a "Breed Standard", their talking about what the acceptable characteristics of that dog (IE: color, size, attributes, temperaments). There are always what the AKC & SHCA consider faults (disqualifications). If your worried about what the exact standards are for this breed, please read the Standards at both AKC & SHCA sites so you know what your exactly looking for.

Here is the summary of overall direct from SHCA site, simple and to the point.

• The Siberian Husky is a medium-sized working dog, quick and light on his feet and free and graceful in action. His moderately compact and well-furred body, erect ears and brush tail suggest his Northern heritage. His characteristic gait is smooth and seemingly effortless. He performs his original function in harness most capably, carrying a light load at a moderate speed over great distances. His body proportions and form reflect this basic balance of power, speed and endurance. The males of the Siberian Husky breed are masculine but never coarse; the bitches are feminine but without weakness of structure. In proper condition, with muscle firm and well developed, the Siberian Husky does not carry excess weight.
• The characteristic temperament of the Siberian Husky is friendly and gentle, but also alert and outgoing. He does not display the possessive qualities of the guard dog, nor is he overly suspicious of strangers or aggressive with other dogs. Some measure of reserve and dignity may be expected in the mature dog. His intelligence, tractability, and eager disposition make him an agreeable companion and willing worker.
• The most important breed characteristics of the Siberian Husky are medium size, moderate bone, well balanced proportions, ease and freedom of movement, proper coat, pleasing head and ears, correct tail, and good disposition. Any appearance of excessive bone or weight, constricted or clumsy gait, or long, rough coat should be penalized. The Siberian Husky never appears so heavy or coarse as to suggest a freighting animal; nor is he so light and fragile as to suggest a sprint-racing animal. In both sexes the Siberian Husky gives the appearance of being capable of great endurance. In addition to the faults already noted, the obvious structural faults common to all breeds are as undesirable in the Siberian Husky as in any other breed, even though they are not specifically mentioned herein.

Not too bad right? The eye color of blue and brown or one of each and even parti-colored. Coats are dual layer with medium length. Tails are fox-brushed and carried over the back in a graceful sickle curve while at attention. A trailing tail is normal in repose. Like I mentioned above, their are more details on the site if your interested in purposes of breeding or showing. Just for a pet, its best to judge by personality and anything that would create a red-flag in your mind that may show up later, which could cause problems (IE: temperament, bad breeding, etc...).

The SCHA has composed a listing of books on their website, I found these on the site geared for new owners. I think this would be worth wild to read to have a deeper understanding of the breed outside of reading my blog. These publications are for sale (some are out of print and available from used book stores).

• How to Raise and Train a Siberian Husky, Lorna Demidoff
• A New Owner's Guide to Siberian Huskies, Kathleen Kanzler (THF Publications)
• The Siberian Husky Primer, Siberian Husky Club of Southern California
• Mother Knows Best, the Natural Way to Train your Dog, Carol Lea Benjamin (Howell House)
• Your Siberian Husky: Its Hips and Its Eyes, SHCA -- pamphlet produced by SHCA; also on website

Thank you for reading. Best Regards,
SocialBeatz

Myth: Are Huskies related or bred from wolfs?

There has been a long-standing question: are they (Siberian Huskies) the descendants of wolves? I, myself, have owned and cared for many Siberian Huskies in my life and have spent a lot of time researching FACTS related to this particular breed of dog.

Is the Siberian Husky a descendent of the wolf? A simple taxonomy search may clear some of the confusion. ALL dogs, every breed, are classified through scientifically as follows: KINGDOM: Animalia, PHYLUM: chordata, CLASS: Mammalia, ORDER: Carnivora, FAMILY: Canidae, GENUS: Canis, SPECIES: Canis Familiaris. The wolf shares the same classifications as all dogs up until SPECIES, where as the wolves are classified under SPECIES.. Canis Lupus. With the advancements in technology as well as in DNA testing, scientists have been able to perform more thorough and accurate research and tests. Siberian Huskies have been declared one of the oldest breed of dogs and where their actual difference are compared to wolves.

"The term "husky" is a corruption of the nickname "Esky" once applied to the Eskimos and subsequently to their dogs. They were bred by the Chukchi of Northeastern Asia to pull heavy loads long distances through difficult conditions. (Wikipedia)
As these dogs have been used for many years prior to becoming apart of families, you can see they were the working dogs of the Eskimos.

Do they resemble wolves? Maybe certain looks. But overall, they are so distinct and different. Another post will discuss the traits and behaviors of the husky as well as standards.

Regards,
SocialBeatz

P.S. Thank you to my wonderful girlfriend for helping me with proof reading and making sure I covered all of the topic. I sincerely love you and thank you!

AKC: American Kennel Club of America
SHCA: Siberian Husky Club of America

Siberian Husky Origins

To start off, here is a summary of their background:

The husky was bred in Northeast Asia to be sled dogs, the Siberian Husky is known for endurance and willingness to work. Their outgoing temperament makes it a great all-around dog, from sledding to therapy (personal favorite) work.

Since their start in cold climates, Siberians have a thicker coat then the majority of other dog breeds which is, made up of a dense cashmere-like undercoat and a longer, coarse top coat which people either love or hate. I guess that would depend on an allergic reaction or not.

Their colors range from black to all white with many different markings on their head.
Credit goes due to the AKC (American Kennel Club Association). Exerts from their breed page, as this is the most accurate information you can find.

Thank you,

SocialBeatz

My Siberian Husky Reggie & Shetland Sheep Dog Candice (RIP Nov 09')

Welcome to the blog fold.

As this is the first blog done and thought it would be appropriate to share knowledge with the masses whom are interested in learning and also for those that want to share what they may know as well.

As this maybe the first post it's only appropriate to thank you for visiting and please do return and spread the word. I will be mobile and will be continually updating this blog in order to provide accurate and interesting knowledge.

Feel free to comment and if you have questions, I would be happy to answer them. Even if their general questions. If there isn't an answer right away, I will research for a correct and accurate answer.

Again, thank you for visiting,
SocialBeatz